Fwd racing suspension setup

Adjust until the tires just start to wrinkle sitting still and start there. This will be a lower pressure than it did on the wider wheels.

Play with it and find the sweet spot. My car hits the same 60' times from 5. This is a very usefull information. I have K-sport coillovers with adjustable shocks, 13 kg springs front and 15 kg springs rear. I usually set up the rear shocks as hard as possible. What do you think, guys? And what do you think about the spring rates? One other thing is make sure the alignment is where the camber hits close to zero when you launch.

Last time out the car would 1. ARFWD said:. Dsmkauai Proven Member. Is there a pro to this over doing it in first? First time with slicks at the strip not too long ago and I was doing mine in first. You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads. Replies 15 Views 11K. Aug 1, Dsmkauai. FWD Suspension Setup. RichardB Dec 5, Drag Strip. Replies 11 Views 8K.

Dec 31, shortydtp. Post Fri Oct 31, pm We all forgot an obvious one - move your battery to the trunk! Post Fri Oct 31, pm of course ,moving weight to the rear between axles included the battery ,of course. I was talking about static weight distribution.

Post Fri Oct 31, pm move the driven wheel to the back axle then you will have a car worth setting up other wise why bother.

Post Sat Nov 01, pm ignorance is not going to win you races although it is a widespread attitude in racing Post Sat Nov 01, pm marcush. I admire work, dedication and competence. FWD can work with a good set up.

The problems are Torque steer with high power outputs so a good diff can help. Also moving the battery is not always an advantage as weight on the front axle gives traction. Although track setups can be quite firm suspension wise i was always led to believe that teams go as soft as they can for grip whilst trying to avoid bottoming out?? Post Tue Feb 18, am I know this is an old thread, periodically updated, and highly ancillary to the main thrust of this board, but no point in not adding to the repository Every front wheel drive car is the same: they all need higher roll stiffness in the rear than in the front.

Every front wheel drive car is different: they all have design idiosyncrasies that must be appreciated. If of sufficient magnitude, and left unaddressed, this can render an otherwise adequate setup maddeningly uncooperative.

Lots of people believe in deleting the front bar, some of whom even win that way - that doesn't make it right ie optimal. Also, a front wheel drive car, setup to get the most out of it, will require pretty strict adherence to the sequence of operation exactly how you drive it , and be pretty intolerant of deviation. They are pretty even but slightly hotter on inside.

Only about 10degres Celsius from inisde to outside. Re: The rear settings - I have it toe'd square with about 1 degree of neg camber. This is something I'm gonna play around with in testing too. Tyres are Dunlops compound and its a set tyre for the class. So can't change it. I am getting wheel spin but not in excess. I'd imagine without a LSD you are never gonna eliminate wheelspin completely? Toe is something that is worth playing with but be carefull! Toe-in gives stability, so the car wants to go straight, if you go for toe-out on the front the car will turn in better but it may not go straight down the straights and can get twitchy when you hit bumps.

Toe-out on the rear can give oversteer big oversteer So if you play with toe just go a little at a time and ONLY do one end of the car at a time. Sometimes you have to take a long hard look at the specs of a standard car and ask yourself what the manufacturer was trying to achieve The factory wheel specs for my car. The car is a Morris ! A popular setup I've seen with many alfasud racers is to reduce or totally remove the front anti-roll bar.

In the rear, an anti-roll bar is added. Now in the case of the alfasud, the rear anti-roll bar works despite the rear being a beam axle, because the anti-roll bar is mounted on the trailing arms strictly speaking I think they are watts linkages and effectively ties those arms together.

Can this idea be applied to the Punto? I seem to remember seeing some web pages about the Punto Super rally car. Are any of the ideas from the Super tarmac spec rally car applicable to your race car? Last edited by alfasud; 16 Jun at I think he's restricted to the control dunlop tires ? One more thing to consider is to reducing weight in the front and moving it toward the rear I'm not sure if the rules let you do that either. This may come little bit too late but This makes it difficult to turn in the tight corners.

Reducing toe and camber will also help reduce tire temperatures, keeping the tire cooler and less likely to overheat and decay. Reducing downforce will also help consume less fuel and cause less tire strain, helping you stay on track longer between pit stops.

Keep an eye on tire temperature and adjust toe and camber to keep temperatures moderate to increase durability. Do not reduce them excessively, so much that they lose grip because they are too cold.

The weather can change in the middle of a race and wreak havoc on the circuit due to all dry configurations not being able to cope with the new environmental conditions.

There are also changes that can occur during hour races with scorching heat temperatures during the day and freezing night temperatures. When it gets wet it can come in the form of heavy rain or light rain which makes the circuit slippery.

If heavy rain comes, install the wet tires as soon as possible. Wet tires help disperse water from the surface to allow softer rubber to adhere to the asphalt. If you are experiencing light wet conditions, install intermediate tires if they are a viable option. Once the tire changes have been made, where possible, you can turn your attention to fine-tuning further changes. First of all you will need to soften the front and rear anti-roll bars to facilitate cornering grip. With the softer setup it is now possible to reduce the all-round negative camber settings as the car will experience less speed and less G when cornering.

The wet asphalt surface will also constantly cool the tires, bringing them to too low a temperature and reducing grip levels. One way to counter this is to slightly increase tire pressure. Do not overinflate the tire, as this will have an opposite effect and will lose grip due to lack of contact surface. Another technique for increasing tire temperatures is to increase the toe in on the front and rear axles.